Welcome to the world of radio controlled model airplanes.

If you have not already seen an R/C aircraft in action, head to the local club field when there is some activity, meet some of the fliers and get to enjoy it first hand. Once you see it, you’ll be hooked!

The first thing one must realize about a radio controlled model aircraft is that it is not a toy. The model is a real aircraft which flies and operates by the same principles as its full scale counterpart. The only difference is size and weight. Models fly at anywhere between 20 and 150 MPH with the average trainer being between 40 and 60 MPH! These are not slow vehicles, nor can they be flown in a normal backyard. They require space! And just like their bigger brothers, they require a learned skill to be controlled properly. It is not simply a matter of pushing a button to take off, another to land, etc.

How Do I Get Started?

There are two steps you should take to get you flying the fastest and most enjoyable way. The first is to get involved with the local club or group of people that fly in your area. Their experience and help will be invaluable to you in both building your aircraft and learning to fly. The second is to outfit yourself with a good trainer aircraft for your first plane. This is not the time in your modelling career to build and fly that P-51 Mustang you’ve been fantasizing about.

What Will I Need?

The following is a description of the items you will require to start flying radio controlled model aircraft. Keep in mind, there is a wide selection available for each one of these items and they can be found throughout the pages of the OKMODEL catalog or here in our web page, www.okmodel.net

The Plane — As mentioned above, you should select a model that is designed specifically for training the new pilot. Typically these aircraft will have a high wing design, simple sturdy construction, excellent plans and instructions, and be easy to fly. In the OKMODEL on-line catalog we have marked all those models we would recommend as being suitable as a trainer. There is a wide selection available from many different manufacturers, as can be found in our on-line catalog, including some that must be assembled and others that come pre-built, Almost-Ready-to-Fly (ARF).

Perhaps the decision to make with regard to your first model is whether you want to build a complete kit or just do some simple assembly with an “Almost-Ready-to-Fly” or ARF model. An ARF model will usually have the bulk of the construction completed and it will even be covered. Usually the only assembly to be done is joining the wing halves, adding the tail surfaces, mounting the radio system, engine and landing gear, and connecting the control surfaces.

The building of a complete kit is more involved, and certainly takes more time, but on the same token, it is usually more satisfying to those so inclined. Also, when you build your own model from a box of wood and plastic parts, you become more familiar with aircraft construction and if the day comes when you have to do some repair work, you may find it much easier having done the building in the first place.

Another consideration when choosing your first plane is how many control functions or channels (one radio channel, not to be confused with frequency, for each function) you wish to use. Trainer aircraft are available in both three channel and four channel configurations. Most aircraft fly with four functions, these being the Rudder, Elevator, Throttle, and Ailerons. Trainers, however, can also fly without the use of ailerons. A greater dihedral (angle of the wings from the horizontal) on these trainers makes them more stable and can also produce gentle turns using rudder only. Usually a three channel model flies more slowly and is easier to fly than one with four functions and a flatter wing. Four channel models can usually handle the wind a bit better, however. Check with your local instructor to see which type of model he recommends and is more comfortable teaching with. If you are learning on your own (which we strongly do not recommend), you should have a much better chance with a three channel model than a four.

There are generally a number of additional items that will be necessary when building a kit. Most kits supply the airframe of the model and do not contain such things as the radio system, the engine, wheels, covering material, and items related to the engine such as fuel tank, fuel tubing, propeller, spinner, etc. ARF models usually contain most items except radio, engine and propeller. We have tried to compile a list of additional items necessary for completing many of the kits we carry and these are listed with the kit as described in the catalog. A discussion of many of these accessories may be found at the end of this section.

The Radio — Along with your aircraft, you will need a radio to control it. Most aircraft radio systems are of four or more channel capability and come with just about everything you need including the rechargeable battery packs. Refer to our Introduction to Radio Systems section for more information on this.

One thing you may want to look for when buying your first radio is “buddy box” capability. The “buddy box” is where two radio transmitters may be connected together through a cable, the instructor holding one and the student holding the other. The student can have control over the model as long as the instructor holds a trainer switch on his transmitter. If the student gets into trouble, the instructor releases the switch and regains full control of the model. This can greatly decrease the learning time and also be good insurance against accidents with the novice pilot. Check with the local club or instructor to see if they have “buddy box” capability and if so, you may wish to purchase a compatible radio system.

The Engine — To power your first model, with the exception of a glider, you will require an engine. The most common type of engine for model aircraft is the glow engine. Electric motors and gas motors are also used but are not as common in trainer aircraft. For more information on engines refer to our Introduction to engines.

Tools and Adhesives — Whether you’re building a complete kit or just assembling an ARF model you will almost certainly need a few basic tools and some adhesives. The most common tools used in building include a modelling knife (such as the X-Acto #1 Knife), T-pins (for holding parts over your full-size plans), a small razor plane, a fine razor saw, small screw drivers, pliers, etc. A sealing iron will be needed to apply covering to the completed airframe. A drill with standard size bits can come in very handy as well. Other, more expensive tools such as a Dremel Moto Tool are also of benefit to the modeller but are not absolutely necessary to the beginner.

There are a variety of adhesives that are currently used in building models and you will need some of these for completion of your project. The most commonly used adhesive today is the cyanoacrylate . These are now specially formulated for working with wood in various thicknesses and setting speeds.

The thin cyano is the fastest curing (usually 3 to 5 seconds!) and is best suited to balsa wood where the joint is good fitting and has a solid contact surface. The parts should be joined first and then the thin cyano applied to the joint. The glue will wick into the joint and form a solid bond.

The thicker or “gap-filling” cyano is great for general purpose building where balsa, spruce or lite plywood is involved. Apply the adhesive to the parts and then join. Drying time is in the order of 5 to 10 seconds.

The thickest cyano, also referred to “slow-setting” can be used like the “gap-filling” cyano where slightly longer cure times might be desired. Drying is in the order of 30 seconds to a minute.

All of these cyanoacrylates may be cured more quickly with the aid of an accelerator or “kicker” which is sprayed onto the joint after gluing.

Another family of adhesives which is very popular in constructing models is Epoxy. This is a two part adhesive which is mixed and then applied to the surface to be bonded. Epoxy is especially useful when working with foam parts as it will not attack the styrofoam. Epoxies are very strong and many kits recommend it specifically for certain parts of the construction.